Little knowledge teaches you about woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and non-woven fabrics. No. 286

The fabrics of the two systems (or directions) are perpendicular to each other and are interwoven in a certain pattern to form a woven fabric (also called woven fabric).

(Figure: the difference between the principle of woven and knitted)

The basic organization is the simplest and most basic organization in all kinds of organizations, and it is the basis for various changes and fancy organizations. The basic organization consists of three types of plain, twill and satin.

1 plain weave

Tissue parameters plain weave weave is the simplest of all kind. Its organization is one up and down, and the two alternate into a complete organization.

The plain weft yarn has the most interlacing points and the yarn buckling, so the fabric surface is flat, the body is firm, the texture is firm, the appearance is tight, but the hand feels hard and the elasticity is small. In actual use, various methods can be used according to different requirements, such as different thickness of warp and weft yarns, change of warp and weft density, and different combinations and configurations of twist, direction and color. Appearance effect.

Commonly used plain weave fabric plain weave is widely used in cotton, wool, silk and hemp fabrics, such as flat cloth with various cloth surface, fine spinning with fine texture, poplin with clear rhombus particles, and four grosgrain with obvious concave and horizontal stripes. , the crepe effect of the seersucker and georgette, as well as the hidden effect of the varnish, the Palestine, the thin tweed, the flannel and so on.

2 twill weave

The twill structure of the tissue parameter is characterized by a short-floating length or a short latitudinal length in a stepwise arrangement, and a continuous oblique line is formed on the surface of the fabric. The movement of each warp yarn is the same, but the starting point is different.



Features The twill weave has a warp, weft and double-sided twill. Where the surface of the fabric is dominated by the tissue points, such as 2/1 is a twill twill, and vice versa, such as 1/3 of the weft tissue points is a weft twill. The reverse side of the twill is the weft twill, but the opposite direction. The ratio of the two tissue points on the front and the back is the same, but the diagonal direction is opposite, which is called double-sided twill. The degree of inclination of the diagonal line is also different. The twill weave indicates the oblique angle of the twill by the angle α between the diagonal line and the horizontal line. As α increases, the larger the density is, the steeper the oblique line is. The twill of α>450 is an acute twill, the twill of α<450 is a slow twill, and when α=450, the warp and weft are equal. The twill weave has less interlacing points than the plain weave, and has a floating length. The fabric is softer and thicker than the plain weave, and the gloss is also good, but the fastness is not as good as that of the plain weave fabric, and the diagonal line on the surface can be clearly defined according to the ratio of the selected twist direction and the warp and weft density. Or the lines are full and prominent, even and straight.

Common twill fabric lines are flat twill, enamel, koi, koala and so on.

3 satin weave

Organization parameters and characteristics Satin is the most complex organization in the basic organization. It is characterized in that each warp yarn (or weft yarn) has only one single tissue point (organized point or weft tissue point), and there is a certain distance between the individual tissue points on the adjacent two yarns, and is flanked by Obscured by the long floating line or the long floating line, the surface of the fabric is almost entirely composed of a long floating line or a long floating line, so the cloth surface is smooth and even, the gloss is good, and the texture is soft.

Common satin fabric satin weaves have a wide range of applications. In the cotton and wool fabrics, five satin weaves are used, and the tribute, tributary, and tribute satin are obtained. In the silk fabric, eight satin weaves are used to obtain various lustrous satin and flowers. Satin or satin woven fabric.

4 change organization

The change organization is a variety of derived organizations obtained on the basis of the original organization, such as changing the number of cycles of the yarn, the length of the float, the number of flying, the direction of the diagonal line, and the like. The change organization can be divided into three categories: plain-grained tissue (including flattened tissue, square-level tissue, etc.), twill-changed tissue (including enhanced twill, composite twill, angle twill, mountain twill, diamond twill, reed twill, etc.), satin Change organization (including strengthening satin, changing satin, etc.).

The fabrics with plain weave change, some appearances have a convex stripe effect, which is used to design poplin, hemp yarn, and robe. Some have a flat appearance, soft and elastic texture, and good gloss. They are often used as the side structure of fabrics such as clothing and screens. The appearance of twill-changed tissue fabrics exhibits various twill effects, some show multiple twill lines in parallel, some are yin and yang, and others show herringbone and reed shape. Therefore, they are widely used in cotton, wool and silk. , chemical fiber and other fabric designs. Compared with satin weave, the satin-changed tissue fabric is more random and free in design, so it has been widely used, such as in satin, satin fabrics, sleek coats, women's styles, etc. application.

5 joint organizations and other complex organizations

A new organization, a joint organization, in which two or more organizations (original or changing organizations) are combined in different ways. The surface of the joint tissue has special appearance effects. The common ones are as follows: stripe structure, through-hole structure, mesh structure, ridge tissue, honeycomb tissue, and sputum tissue. These tissues are widely used in clothing and decorative fabrics. application.

Complex organization, complex organization means that at least one of the warp and weft yarns is composed of two or more sets of yarns. This structure can increase the thickness of the fabric and make the surface dense, improve the abrasion resistance of the fabric and soften the texture, or obtain some special properties. According to its different organizational structure, it can be divided into two types: double organization, double layer tissue, hair raising tissue, towel tissue, and leno tissue. They are widely used in autumn and winter clothing, decorative fabrics (bed blankets, seat cushions) and industrial fabrics.

The knitted fabric is formed in a different manner from the woven fabric, and can be classified into a weft knitted fabric and a warp knitted fabric depending on the production method. The weft knitted fabric feeds the yarn from the weft direction into the working needle of the knitting machine, and each yarn is woven in a row in a certain order; the warp knitted fabric is in one or several sets of parallel The aligned warp yarns are knitted into a loop formed by simultaneously feeding all of the working needles of the knitting machine in the warp direction, and each yarn forms a stitch in each of the courses. Regardless of the knit fabric, the coil is the most basic component. The structure of the coil is different, and the combination of the coils is different, which constitutes various kinds of knitted fabrics, including basic tissues, varying tissues and flower color tissues.

(1) Weft knitted fabric

1. Basic organization

(1) The simplest structure of the jersey structure knitted fabric is formed by contiguous unit coils unidirectionally splicing each other, as shown in the lower left figure, forming different appearances on the front and back sides of the fabric. The organization has large lateral extension, but it is easy to curl and disperse. It is widely used in underwear, outerwear and all kinds of socks.

(2) The rib structure is a double-sided structure, which is composed of a combination of a front side wales and a reverse side wales. The rib structure of different names and properties is different according to the number of longitudinal and vertical arrangement of the front and back stitches. Ribbed tissue has good elasticity and is used in a variety of underwear products and parts that require stretchability (such as the hem of the clothes, cuffs and neckline, and stretch shirts).

(3) Double-backed tissue double-back tissue is also called "pearl-knitted". As shown in the lower left figure, the front-side course and the reverse-side course are alternately arranged, and different combinations can be used to form uneven stripes or patterns. The organization has the characteristics of vertical and horizontal extensibility and similar elasticity, and is mostly used for forming products such as sweaters, sweatshirts or children's wear.

2. Change organization

The changing tissue is formed by arranging the coils of one or more basic tissues between the adjacent longitudinal rows of a basic tissue, such as the commonly used double rib structure. The double rib structure, also known as the double reverse tissue, is a front coil that is formed by combining two rib structures and forming the same appearance on both the front and back sides of the fabric. Widely used in underwear and sportswear.

3. Flower organization

Weft knitted fabrics have a variety of color schemes. They are formed on the basis of basic or changing organization, using various yarns to weave coils of different structures according to certain rules, such as pad structure, tuck organization, pineapple tissue, corrugated structure, plush tissue, lining Weft tissue and so on. These organizations are widely used in outerwear, towels, blankets, children's wear and sportswear.

(2) Warp knitted fabric

1. Basic organization

The basic organization of warp knitted fabrics is chain structure, warp organization and satin tissue.

(1) The structure of each chain of yarns in which the yarns are always looped on the same needle is called a chain structure, and there is no connection between the longitudinal rows of the coils formed by the respective warp yarns, and there are two kinds of openings and closed mouths. Due to its small longitudinal stretchability and difficulty in curling, it is often used as a basic organization for products such as shirt fabrics and outer garments, such as stretch fabrics and lace curtains.

(2) Each warp yarn in the flat tissue alternately lays the yarn on two adjacent needles, and each stitch is longitudinally formed by adjacent warp yarns, and the two rows constitute a complete structure. The tissue has a certain longitudinal and lateral extensibility, and the curling property is not significant, and is often used in combination with other tissues for knitted fabrics such as inner and outer garments and shirts.

2. Change organization and other organizations

In addition to the above tissues, there are many tissues such as warp and warp, which are widely used in underwear, outerwear, sweaters, etc., and are not introduced here.

Non-woven fabric, also known as nonwoven fabric. Refers to a fiber layer consisting of a certain orientation or a random arrangement without a conventional spinning, weaving or knitting process, or by interlacing the fiber layer with the yarn, by mechanical hooking, stitching or chemical, hot melt, etc. Into the fabric. Compared with other garment materials, non-woven fabrics have the advantages of short production process, high output, low cost, wide application of fiber, excellent product performance and wide application. Non-woven fabrics have developed rapidly and have become an emerging industry, and are increasingly used in various fields of the apparel industry.

(Photo: Non-woven fabric)

The structure of the non-woven fabric can be divided into the following categories according to the composition and formation method of the fiber web:

1 fiber structure nonwoven fabric

(1) Fiber bonding method It is a fiber web in which short fibers are laminated into a sheet shape, and the fibers are bonded to each other by laminating the fiber web itself or vertically and horizontally to form a cloth. These include adhesive bonding and hot melt bonding.

a. Adhesive bonding refers to the use of synthetic resin or synthetic fiber adhesive to fix the fiber layer, so that the fiber web is cured and bonded to become a non-separable nonwoven fabric. Depending on the type of the adhesive and the processing method, it can be divided into a structure such as point bonding, film bonding, agglomerating, and partial bonding. This type of nonwoven fabric has better air permeability, but has a harder hand and is mostly used in wall coverings and disposable products.

b. hot-melt bonding means that hot-melt fibers are added to the fiber web in advance, and when the overlapping fiber webs are passed through the heating calender, the heat-fusible fibers in the region of rolling or embossing are melted to produce reinforcement. Thereby bonding to other fibers. The non-woven fabric has better filtration performance, elasticity and bulkiness, as well as better gas permeability and hygroscopicity, and is suitable for making winter clothing, floc filler, bedding, filter cloth, automobile cloth and tufted carpet base. cloth.

(2) Bonding of mutually entangled fibers The non-woven fabric refers to a felt structure which is obtained by overlapping appropriate fiber webs and acting in a certain manner (such as needle punching, stitching, etc.) to make the fibers well intertwined with each other. Non-woven fabric. According to the mode of action, it can be divided into a needle punching method, a spunlace method, a spunbonding method and a braiding method.

a. needling non-woven fabric Thousands of crochet needles with special structure are used to repeatedly move up and down through the fiber web, so that the entire fiber web becomes a dense felt-like non-woven fabric which is entangled, entangled and not separated from each other. These products have a wide range of applications and can be widely used in geotextiles, bed blankets, filter materials, needle felts and artificial leather base fabrics.

b. The spunlace nonwoven fabric is also referred to as a needleless nonwoven fabric . It uses a lot of strong water jets to squash the fabric into a fabric. It has a high strength, full hand and good transparency, suitable for clothing lining, shoulder pads and so on.

c. Spunbonded non-woven fabric synthetic fiber raw liquid is extruded from the spinning head to form filaments, and the generated static electricity and high-pressure airflow are used to cause the fibers to randomly and disorderly fall on the metal curtain, and then heat through the heating roller. Shaped into a nonwoven fabric. The spunbonded nonwoven fabric has the advantages of air permeability, water permeability, and the like, and is widely used as an insulating material for agriculture and animal husbandry.

d. Stitching method Non-woven fabric refers to a web that will be randomly arranged and stitched by a multi-head sewing machine to make a non-woven fabric with a tight structure. These fabrics are close to the appearance and performance of traditional clothing materials and are widely used in apparel fabrics and artificial fur base fabrics, linters and the like.

2 yarn type stitching structure non-woven fabric

(1) Yarn layer - stitching yarn type stitching non-woven fabric The warp and weft yarns are layered, and the stitching yarn is woven in a flat structure to perform a nonwoven fabric reinforcing the yarn layer. The fabric has the appearance of organic fabrics and knitted fabrics, has good dimensional stability and high strength, and is suitable for outer fabrics.

(2) Yarn layer - a loop-type stitch- bonded non-woven fabric , the weft yarn is laid up into a net, and is reinforced by a braided structure formed by stitch- spun yarn . The loop yarn is segmented and weft inserted in the stitching area, so that the cloth surface has a raised loop shape. Can be used for decorative fabrics, clothing fabrics, etc.

The application of non-woven fabrics The rise of non-woven fabrics, although only half a century, has grown rapidly. Compared with the general interweaving cloth, due to its unique structure and processing method, it has broad application prospects. Its products have been widely used in many fields such as civil clothing, decorative fabrics, industrial fabrics, medical materials, military and high-tech technologies. There are hundreds of products developed, such as various garment linings and curtains. Disposable products for health care, geotextiles, filter cloth, cushions, wall coverings, carpets, baby diapers, packaging materials and crop insulation sheds.